Doll arrangements in homes during Dussera

Navratri, the nine-night festival, celebrates Goddess Durga, Goddess Lakshmi and Goddess Saraswathi in South India. Kolu (also written as Golu) doll arrangement is an essential part of the celebration. The origin of the word Kolu can be traced to Tamil Kolu or Telegu Koluvai, which means a sovereign sitting in his royal court.

The concept of arranging the Navratri dolls on the planks depicts Goddess Mahishasuramardini sitting in her Kolu, prior to the slaying of the demon Mahishasura. This year, Navratri Kolu begins on October 8.

The festival is known as Bommla Koluvu in Andhra Pradesh and Navarathri in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Navratri is observed as Dusshera in Karnataka, where it is observed for ten days. The main event during Navrathri in South India is the display of dolls and idols – Kolu and the placing of Kalash, which represents Goddess.

Collecting Dolls

Although the dolls are only decorated during the ten days of Dussera, the collection of dolls builds over years. These dolls can be very simple to very complicated ones as per ones taste.

Marapachi Bommai

Marapachi dolls, mostly made of reddish wood, are finely carved figurines, available in various sizes. These dolls are a pair of male and female dolls, always sold as a couple. The female doll in Marapachi dolls is displayed to the right of the male doll and is usually placed on the first step or after Lord Ganesh.

Marapachi dolls are a proud possession for many families and are handed down generations. There is also a tradition of parents gifting their newly married daughter a Marapachi doll so that she can start Kolu display in her house. Some Tamil communities perform a ritual of symbolic wedding of the Marapachi dolls. This is usually carried out by girls whose wedding are delayed for some reason.

Marapachi toys were made for children in ancient days. Today, they are an indispensable part of Navratri doll arrangements. During display, the wooden couple is beautifully adorned with colorful attires and jewellery.

Arrangement of Golu

The first three days of the festival are dedicated to the worship of Lakshmi, Goddess of Wealth and Prosperity, the next three days to Saraswati, Goddess of Learning and Arts and the last three days to Shakti, Goddess of Power and Might.

Arranging Navratri Kolu is an event in itself. Every year, women of the household, enthusiastically arrange these dolls as per their tastes. These Navratri dolls are arranged in several tiers. A maximum of nine tiers (Padis) can be set up to arrange the dolls, depending on the space and time available.

Some may remodify the existing dolls with additional ornamentation, or they add a couple of new dolls to the existing collection to every year. It also entails inviting neighbors, friends and other relatives to visit your home and view the Kolu decoration. Women exchange coconuts, small gifts and sweets amongst themselves. Married women (Sumangali) also exchange pouches containing a small mirror, turmeric, comb, beetle leaves with a beetlenut.

The most important dolls in the Kolu arrangement are the King-Queen (marapaachi bommais). These are expensive dolls and a set of them is found in all traditional households. Another important idol is that of Goddess Saraswati. A Kalash is also placed along with the Golu.

Tier 1, 2, 3 – These steps are devoted solely to the Gods; different idols of various Gods are arranged here. The ceremonial jar for holy water, which is a conical vessel,  is filled with fresh water. A silk cloth is used to cover the mouth of the vessel, and a coconut and mango leaves are placed on top of it. Also known as Kumbhan, this is kept on the first step.

Tier 4, 5, 6 – The next three steps are dedicated to demigods, saints like Sai Baba, great men like Swami Vivekananda. Some households even place dolls of national leaders who have sacrificed their lives for the country.

Tier 7 – Various arrangements, such as the marriage scene and Pongal motif, which signify the various human activities, are placed on the seventh tier.

Tier 8 – The eighth tier is assigned to various businesses and crafts. The Chettiar dolls, which are an equivalent of a businessman and his wife, are placed here, and commodities like rice, pulses in cups and other utensils are placed in front of them.

Tier 9 – The ninth tier is the last phase.  Traditional wooden dolls called Marapachi — male and female dolls dressed in colorful and glittering clothes — are placed. Dolls of animals, birds, reptiles and other forms of nature are also kept on this tier.

On the night of Dussera, after the ceremonial Arti and prayers, the dolls are put to ‘sleep.’ The next day, the dolls are packed carefully in cloth or paper and preserved for use the next year.

A novel trend evolving is the concept of `Community Kolus’. Several women, who are otherwise unable to keep Kolu in their homes, cumulate and put up a Navratri Kolu in a common place.

On a Budget, in Dubai

June 2007
whats on - Wine-N-Dine

The moment you set foot in Dubai, the grandeur of the city awes. The shiny and glitzy glass and metal facades which form the cityscape can leave a newcomer dazzled and wide-eyed. But the City of Gold does not demand its visitors to pay the toll in gold. You can enjoy all its facets – sights, shopping and eating out – on a restricted budget and yet return with a fulfilling experience.

In the back lanes of several of the shiny towers, you will find tea and fruit juice joints. With a huge immigrant population, strong and flavoured tea is a favourite. While scouring the Souqs for fresh condiments, perfumes and electronics, you will find large servings of Kiwi Juice at Dhs 2 very refreshing.

If a quick bite means grabbing a Jumbo Vada Pav or an Idli-Vada before jumping into a fleeting bus or train, you must reach out for a Shawarma in Dubai. A Lebanese item, it has shreds of roasted chicken with tingling sauces rolled up conveniently in a Pita bread, apt for the person on a move! The Shwarma’s are priced at Dhs 3, with a guarantee to satiate hunger-pangs at all the odd hours.

For a more substantial luncheon, look out for the famous chain restaurant – Karachi Darbar. A no-fuss eating joint, office-goers can be seen galore; they come here for quick service. Although a little cold-shouldered, you find that the food seems to appear magically in a flash, piping hot. Savour a three-course meal of Chicken Tikka, Dal Ghost, Rotis, Lassi and their famous hot Jamuns for a neat Dhs 50 for two people.

Similar to the Shwarma joints, you will find the city dotted with small joints which prepare burgers, Indian-style, if you please. At Dhs 5 a plate, these chunky burgers surely give a beating to McDonalds, KFC and Burger King in terms of value-for-money which are priced at Dhs 18.

As the scorching sun sizzles behind the cooling waters, another facet of Arabia comes to life. People prefer to spend a relaxing evening over Shishas and endless hours of banter. This perfect setting of Al Paras fortunately comes minus the high price-tag. An open air restaurant, they have Khus sheets with water running over them to keep cool.

You will be escorted to an elevated wooden canopy, with a carpet and seating on cushions for the party. The meal commences with an earthen bowl of Hummus with a generous dollop of olive oil, cheese stick, mint leaves and Khaboos. The Kebabs, their speciality, are served along with a live barbeque, so you can enjoy the meal at a slow pace. This is accompanied with Irani Rice, liberally sprinkled with homemade butter. This rice itself is flavoured and most people don’t find the need to combine it with a gravy dish. This elaborate evening might cause a small dent of Dhs 250 for five people. But then, its is all worth it!

If you, though, prefer a quick dinner minus the frills, head for the back alleys of Bur Dubai, where you will find the labour class of the opulent city voraciously digging into heaps of Biryani. These cubby holes also have separate seating for families, often in upstairs booths. A meal can be enjoyed here for as little as Dhs 7 for two people.

Be warned though, a trip to the world-famous malls can surely leave your pocket light of all that you saved up with this culinary budget.

Pondicherry - The French Connection

March 2007
whats on - Getaway

Pondicherry The French Connection

Sights are manifold, from pastel-coloured churches to bright temple towers; Joan of Arc's heavenward gaze vies with the tall carved pillars from Gingee at the seafront; cricket competes with petanque.

Pondicherry, a confluence of spiritual aura, French colonial heritage and Tamil culture, is one of the few surviving union territories with a pristine coastline. Fondly called Pondy, it is a charming Mediterranean town with cobbled streets, stylish houses and ornamental gardens. Pondy instantly transports the first-timer to a picturesque town. All the roads and institutions have names in French, such as Hotel de Ville, which is the Town Hall. Little wonder then that Pondy is often called the French Riviera of the East. The French first arrived and ruled the town for nearly 281 years. Today, it stands as a living and breathing monument of the French culture in India.
A convenient way to see Pondicherry is at leisure, by a cycle rickshaw. And, if you really want do want some pace, hire a motorcycle. They come for as little as Rs 100 per day (fuel extra). It is easy to whizz about, zigzagging through the lanes, all over the town with no chance of every getting lost. This French Boulevard town has everything planned down into a grid, much like New York City.
Sights are manifold, from pastel-coloured churches to bright temple towers; Joan of Arc's heavenward gaze vies with the tall carved pillars from Gingee at the seafront; cricket competes with petanque. Apart from the monuments, there is the French Consulate and the Foyer du Soldat for war veterans of the French Army.
The restaurants serve a rich variety of French, Indian, Asian and continental food, with the latest pizza for an American bite. A favourite with tourists is Rendevous, a quintessential French restaurant.
For an avid shopper, Pondy has a lot to offer and is a favourite shopping destination. With taxes low or practically non-existent, Pondy is soft on your purse. It is known for its traditional doll making, textiles and silks. It is also the birthplace of several world-class brands in leather, pottery, aromatics, fashion and handmade paper. Scented candles, incense sticks, lamps and articles made with handmade paper and dry flowers are the flavour of Pondicherry.
On the border of Tamil Nadu is the international city of Auroville, which has the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Inspired by the teachings of Sri Aurobindo, Aurovilled has been largely realized through the vision of his French disciple, known as the 'Mother'.
The French have a saying - Plus ca change, plus c'est le meme chose - which means, the more things change, the more they stay the same. And this could be somewhat the case for Pondicherry. At the crossroads of eastern and western culture, and of ancient and modern spiritual disciplines, Pondicherry truly is a heritage town.

Fact File
Area: 480 sq.km
Language: Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam, English & French
Population: 973, 829
When To Go: The climate is tropical, which means that is is hot and humid. Average temperatures are 24C degrees typical of January and 30C degrees for June. The monsoon is active from October through December.

Shack Up!

USP Age
What's On - Wine-N-Dine

If you are yearning for the soft sands of Goa just head for 100ft Road, Indiranagar to shack up at The Beach. This restaurant will instantly transport you to the sultry beaches of Goa – sand, ocean, coconut grooves, et al.
Designed like a Goan shack, you feel at ease the moment you step in. The first things you notice are the lush bamboos which stand tall, blocking away any reminiscence of still being in Bengaluru city.
Essentially divided into four areas, you can enjoy 'an evening in Goa' in all the sections. The Predo Shack is lit subtly with goblets of candles, and is walled off with glass. The high-backed chairs are accompanied by beautiful tables, which are filled with sand and white pebbles, make it a perfect venue for a quiet romantic evening.
The Beach Area has a more upbeat feel to it. The high ceiling with jute and bamboo complete the Goan-shack feel. The glass tabletops are balanced on coconut tree stumps. The stools which make up for seats, are also logs of coconut trees. The accompanying bar area too has a backdrop of bamboo shoots. You will be tempted to dig your feet into the soft sand which makes for the flooring while enjoying hip-hop and house music dished out by the resident DJ.
The bar serves both Indian and imported liquor. Must-try is their Margarita and Long Island Iced Tea. ‘Sex on the Beach’ also came recommended by the manager. You can enjoy your drink over the gentle murmur of waves. The Beach boasts of a water machine which forms waves, thus completing the 'oceanic experience'.
The Lounge area has under-played lighting with low seating. You can laze on the sofas for hours on end. Head for the fine dining section, which is on the first level for a hearty meal. They serve both lunch and dinner, with a multi-cuisine menu. But the kitchen specialises in Goan dishes from where Xazuti, a coconut-based gravy, comes highly recommended. You have a choice of meat – fish, chicken or mutton. The Goan curry which is another hot favourite among patrons, too has a coconut base, spiced delicately with Goan condiments. They also specialise in Continental dishes.
Going by the crowds flocking The Beach every weekend, it sure seems like Goa has found some tough competition in Bangalore.