March 2007
whats on - Getaway
Pondicherry The French Connection
Sights are manifold, from pastel-coloured churches to bright temple towers; Joan of Arc's heavenward gaze vies with the tall carved pillars from Gingee at the seafront; cricket competes with petanque.
Pondicherry, a confluence of spiritual aura, French colonial heritage and Tamil culture, is one of the few surviving union territories with a pristine coastline. Fondly called Pondy, it is a charming Mediterranean town with cobbled streets, stylish houses and ornamental gardens. Pondy instantly transports the first-timer to a picturesque town. All the roads and institutions have names in French, such as Hotel de Ville, which is the Town Hall. Little wonder then that Pondy is often called the French Riviera of the East. The French first arrived and ruled the town for nearly 281 years. Today, it stands as a living and breathing monument of the French culture in India.
A convenient way to see Pondicherry is at leisure, by a cycle rickshaw. And, if you really want do want some pace, hire a motorcycle. They come for as little as Rs 100 per day (fuel extra). It is easy to whizz about, zigzagging through the lanes, all over the town with no chance of every getting lost. This French Boulevard town has everything planned down into a grid, much like New York City.
Sights are manifold, from pastel-coloured churches to bright temple towers; Joan of Arc's heavenward gaze vies with the tall carved pillars from Gingee at the seafront; cricket competes with petanque. Apart from the monuments, there is the French Consulate and the Foyer du Soldat for war veterans of the French Army.
The restaurants serve a rich variety of French, Indian, Asian and continental food, with the latest pizza for an American bite. A favourite with tourists is Rendevous, a quintessential French restaurant.
For an avid shopper, Pondy has a lot to offer and is a favourite shopping destination. With taxes low or practically non-existent, Pondy is soft on your purse. It is known for its traditional doll making, textiles and silks. It is also the birthplace of several world-class brands in leather, pottery, aromatics, fashion and handmade paper. Scented candles, incense sticks, lamps and articles made with handmade paper and dry flowers are the flavour of Pondicherry.
On the border of Tamil Nadu is the international city of Auroville, which has the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Inspired by the teachings of Sri Aurobindo, Aurovilled has been largely realized through the vision of his French disciple, known as the 'Mother'.
The French have a saying - Plus ca change, plus c'est le meme chose - which means, the more things change, the more they stay the same. And this could be somewhat the case for Pondicherry. At the crossroads of eastern and western culture, and of ancient and modern spiritual disciplines, Pondicherry truly is a heritage town.
Fact File
Area: 480 sq.km
Language: Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam, English & French
Population: 973, 829
When To Go: The climate is tropical, which means that is is hot and humid. Average temperatures are 24C degrees typical of January and 30C degrees for June. The monsoon is active from October through December.
