Pondicherry is a confluence of spiritual aura, French colonial heritage and Tamil culture, creating an ambience not felt anywhere else in India. Pondicherry is a melting pot of varied cultures, all of which come together in this small but varied own.
A letter from Pondy
Mon ami,
I landed in Pondicherry five days ago. Feels like I’ve been transported back in time to a French colony - a charming Mediterranean town with cobbled streets, stylish houses and ornamental gardens. As the French would say Rues chiques, maisons élégantes et jardins d’agrément. You would have noticed that I have picked up a bit of French. Really can’t help that. All the roads and institutions have names in French like Hotel de Ville which is the Town Hall. Even the local policemen dress French. They still endorse red kepis (caps) and belts.
I have been bicycling all over the town. Pondy has a pristine coastline stretching over 30 kms. The palm-fringed beach has really caught my fancy. And there’s so much to do! There are resorts, a water sports centre, a fishing village, the backwaters. Boy! I can’t decide what to do first.
And you never get lost here. This French Boulevard town has everything planned in a grid.
I’m planning to go to the international city of Auroville, which has the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Will attend a few sessions at their Yoga centre; probably attain Nirvana.
I’ll write more later...
Getting there
Pondicherry is best accessible by road from Chennai, Bangalore or Kerala. From Chennai it is a pleasant ride along the scenic East Coast Road. It will take you about two and half hours for an easy, pothole-free journey. Bangalore would be a longer journey – six-and-a-half hours if you drive non-stop.
A tourist taxi journey up and down from Chennai in a Ford Ikon, would cost approx Rs 5,800 + toll tax. An Indica however, would be the cheaper option.
Buses also ply regularly to Pondicherry. There is no direct train route to Pondicherry either from Chennai or Bangalore. Chennai is the closest international airport, and directly connects to the highway to Pondy. And there are good transit hotels available in the vicinity for travellers who arrive in the night.
Getting around
A novel way to see Pondicherry is in a cycle rickshaw. Plenty of rickshaws are available especially around the Ashram area. They will show you Pondicherry and its sights at a leisurely pace. And a great experience for those who have not sat in one. And unlike Kolkata this one is not pulled by a human, it is an extension of the cycle.
Are you a health freak? Then hire a cycle. It costs around Rs 20 per day. If you are not the sort who wants to pedal around, hire a motorcycle. They come on hire as little as Rs 100 per day (fuel extra).
History
The history of modern Pondicherry starts with the arrival of the French in 1673, who ruled for most part of the next 281 years. In 1947 the English left India for good, but it lasted till 1954 when the French handed Pondicherry over to an independent India.
The origin of Pondicherry however is buried in legends. Excavated remnants testify trade connections with Rome and Greece, dating back to as far as 100 BC. Ancient Roman scripts mention one of the trade centres along the Indian coast as Poduca or Poduke, which refers, historians affirm, only to the present Pondicherry. Before this period nothing is known with certainty.
Heritage
Pondicherry, which is a conglomerate of different cultural influences, is a heritage town. It is at a crossroads of eastern and western culture, and of ancient and modern spiritual disciplines.
It has a rich French cultural heritage, having been the capital of the French colonies in India since the 17th century.
Sights are manifold, from pastel coloured churches to bright temple towers; Joan of Arc’s heavenward gaze vies with the tall carved pillars from Gingee at the seafront; cricket competes with pétanque. Apart from the monuments there is the French Consulate and the Foyer du Soldat for war veterans of the French Army. Of the cultural organisations the French Institute, the Alliance Francais and the Ecole Francais d’Extrème Orient are noteworthy. These movements converge in a practical manner in the twin communities of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram and Auroville.
An Investor’s Paradise
With the status of industry accorded to tourism, the Government of Pondicherry has prepared a master plan to promote tourism in the Union Territory of Pondicherry. This offers a great investment opportunity to entrepreneurs.
It is estimated that about 3000 additional hotel rooms are required in the next five years. The identified areas of investment include resorts, hotels, theme parks, golf courses, water sports, ferry service between Pondicherry and Chennai, operation of regular chartered flights, and so on.
As an incentive to investors, many concessions and benefits are being provided.
Among them are:
- Grant of interest subsidy on loans by the financial institutions.
- Exemption of luxury tax for hotel accommodation.
- Exemption of sales tax.
- No entry tax for tourist vehicles.
- Majority participation by foreign investors in case of joint venture projects.
- Income tax holiday for 5 years.
The Government also encourages Non-Resident Indians (NRIs) and foreign nationals of Indian origin to invest in tourism projects. All the incentives offered by the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, are available in the Union Territory of Pondicherry as well.
Architecture
The French relinquished their control of Pondy 50 years ago, but reminders of the colonial days remain. Neat, pleasant, and charming, Pondicherry has a beautiful beach and a sea that is always warm and refreshing. Viewed from the sea, the skyline is typical of that of a Mediterranean fishing village. The town has been planned on a grid right from its inception; divided in a French section and Tamil section, with each having its own distinctive streetscapes. The French Town has colonial style buildings with long compound walls and stately gates. The facades have vertical columns and tall windows and are coloured cream, yellow and pink. Streets in the Tamil Town are lined up with verandas and extended porches where residents would gather and passing guests would spend the night. The colours dominant here are green, blue and brown.
People
When you walk down the streets you canhear French being spoken. French words and phrases squeeze themselves into the colloquial slang like Bonjour, Comment ca va, monsieur? The locals speak French with astonishingly Parisian pronunciation and without any grammatical errors; and switch over to Tamil, again with the perfect Tamil accent.
But the hallmark of Pondicherry is the flat-topped cylindrical red kepi - a hat worn by the police. The French have a saying - Plus ça change, plus c’est lr même chose which means - the more things change the more they stay the same. And this could be somewhat the case for Pondicherry.
Shopping
For the avid shopper, Pondy has a lot to offer and is fast becoming a favourite shopping destination. With taxes low or non-existent Pondy is soft on your purse. It is known for its traditional doll making, textiles and silks. It is also the birthplace of several world-class brands in leather, pottery, aromatics, fashion and handmade paper. Scented candles, incense sticks, lamps and other articles made with handmade paper and dry flowers are the flavour of Pondicherry.
Eating Out
The restaurants serve a rich variety of French, Indian, Asian and continental food, with the latest pizza for an American bite.
Hotels
Pondicherry has a wide choice of hotels for most visitors: beach resorts for the leisure traveller, heritage hotels for those who want to experience something different, high class commercial hotels for the corporate visitors and the neat ashram guest houses for the spiritual seeker.
A Lot to See. A Lot to Do.
Monuments abound in Pondy and each one has a story to tell.
Churches
The large number of 18th and 19th century churches in Pondy is yet another legacy of the French. Notable are the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the Eglise de Notre Dame de la Conception, the Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges, the Eglise de Notre Dame de Lourdes and the Chapel of the Sisters of Cluny.
The Aayi Mandapam
Located at the centre of the Park, it is the best known monument. Built during the reign of Napoleon III in France, the Aayi Mandapam is named after a 16th century courtesan, Aayi, who demolished her house and built a water tank instead. This reservoir served French engineers later to bring water to the town.
Sri Aurobindo Ashram
Sri Aurobindo, the great seer, poet and prophet of the twentieth century, made Pondicherry his home from 1910 till his death in 1950. His vision and ideals continue to draw people from all over the world.
Auroville
Located 10 kms north of Pondicherry, Auroville is envisioned as a universal town, where people from different nationalities, faiths and beliefs, can live in peace and harmony. This international City of Unity was constructed under the guidance of The Mother, a Paris-born painter and musician who became Sri Aurobindo’s disciple and close companion. The development of this utopia is still in progress.
Pondicherry Museum
On display are the findings of Arikamedu, the Chola bronzes and sculptures, glimpses of French heritage, specimens of traditional handicraft, paintings, armouries and carvings.
Chunnambar Resort
Known for its virgin beaches and backwaters, Chunnambar has a water sports centre which offers exciting boating experiences. It is also a great tourist spot.
Botanical Garden
Established by the French in 1826, it preserves a large variety of exotic species of plants from all over India and abroad.
Villiayanur
Architecturally the finest in Pondicherry, the Sri Gokilambal Thirukameswarar Temple attracts hundreds of devotees during Brahmo-thsavam, a ten-day annual festival held in May-June. The temple car rising to a height of 15.25 metres is profusely decorated, pulled out from its usual position and taken on a procession around the town. It is an awe-inspiring sight.
Mansion of Ananda Rangapillai
Built in 1773, this mansion is a fine specimen of Indo-French architecture. Ananda Rangapillai was the courtier of Joseph Francois Dupleix, the Governor.
Anglo-French Textile Mills
Established over a century ago, a visit to the Anglo-French Textile Mills is an education in itself. The mill gives a ten percent rebate on purchases made by tourists who go on guided tours. The acclaimed fabrics and products of this mill make ideal mementoes and gifts.
The Government Park
It is the centre of the old colonial part of the town. The Park provides a cool and lush green anchor around which most government buildings are situated: the Lt. Governor’s Palace, the Legislative Assembly, Government Hospital, the Ashram Dining Room in a beautiful Villa, the Cercle de Pondichery, a private club, and old Hotel Qualité.
Eglise De Sacre Coeur De Jesus
Dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, this church is noted for its gothic architecture and stained glass panels which depict the entire life of Jesus Christ.
Festive Cheer
Almost every month, there is an important fair or a festival in Pondicherry. Some are religious in nature, others cultural and spiritual and still others, purely gourmet. There is the International Yoga Festival in January, Maasi Magam in February - March at the beach of the Fishing Village and Fête de Pondichery.
A private beach for the asking
If you want to stay right on the beach then the Pondi Ashok is the place for you. On the outskirts of Pondi, this ITDC hotel has its own private beach Blue seas, white sands, palms, a hammock and an interesting book…it’s sheer heaven.
Sightseeing Tour
The Pondicherry Tourism & Transport Development Corporation conducts a daily sightseeing tour in and around Pondicherry. There are both half-day and a full-day trip programmes. For more information and bookings, contact: Tourist Information Bureau, 40 Goubert Avenue, Beach Road % 413-339497
Beyond Pondicherry
Pondy is a perfect base to explore the rich destinations around it. The cool and lush hill stations of Yercaud and Kodaikanal; the imposing Gingee Fort, the holy temple towns of Kanchi-puram, Tiruvannamalai and Chidambaram, the heritage sculptures and magnificent rock temples of Mamallapuram, are perfect for a day trip.
